Dr. Sephronius Potsdam's Wondrous Gravy Strengthener

"Dr." Sephronius Potsdam (presumably a pseudonym) was a medicine show pitchman, peddler, and general charlatan, operating in the Deep South around the turn of the last century. The following recipe reproduces one of his more successful products, a condiment guaranteed to add flavor and zip to soups, stews, and any gravy. An examination of the ingredients suggests time spent in Louisville, Ky and eastern North Carolina. It makes an excellent barbecue sauce or general condiment.

A pint or so of tomato ketchup (rather than walnut or mushroom) blended with a pint of spirit vinegar, three gills of worcester sauce, the same quantity of chili sauce, a bottle of chop sauce (HP is recommended) and a bottle of tobasco sauce. Mix well together and bottle.

Chicken Stew

A quantity of boneless chicken breasts, cubed. Heat a couple of spoons of oil in a stew pot. Add chicken pieces. Sprinkle liberally with salt and pepper. Sprinkle over two or three large spoons of flour. Stir together to coat the chicken. Drop a cold stick of butter cut into tablespoons over the surface of the cooking chicken. When butter melts, stir chicken. Continue to cook until chicken is cooked and the flour begins to brown. Add a pint or so each of broth and milk. Let simmer over a low flame for an hour or so till thick and creamy. Flavor with hot sauce or hot pepper relish. Serve with bread for sopping.

Biscuits and related matters

Since my last post had no recipes, I'll include three today.

Biscuits. A staple of southern cookery. Truly glorious if prepared well, and utterly abysmal if done badly. The two recipes that follow are the best I've come across. Good luck.

Biscuits

4 handfuls of self rising flour-White Lily please
1 fistful of lard-shortening will do, but lard has a better texture and flavor
"enough" buttermilk or clabber or blue john or pet milk or, well, there are a lot of options.

By handful, I mean as much flour as you can scoop up with a slightly cupped hand. By fistful, I mean about a half a handful. As to "enough", it depends on the liquid used and the looseness of dough you prefer. I like a loose dough, so I generally push mty fist into the well of flour and fill up the hole. It works perfectly. You will want to experiment.

Work the lard into the flour, add your liquid, and bring together into a dough. Use a butterknife, it does the job better than a fork. I tend to break off pieces of dough and roll them in my hands, but if you want to roll them out, feel free.

Bake at 485 for 13-16 minutes till just done.

Biscuits 2

1 sifter full of self rising flour
5 spoons of lard (a tablespoon, like an actual serving spoon, not the measuring spoon, heaping)
enough liquid (see above)

Prepare as above.

If these instructions are useless to you, try White Lily's website.

Two fun recipes with biscuits:

Butter Roll Pie

1 making of biscuit dough, rolled out into a big rectangle. Spread with softened butter (real butter), sprinkle liberally with cinnamon and sugar. Roll up and cut into rounds like cinnamon rolls. Place cut side up in a baking dish, and pour over a custard mixture (1 qt. milk, 1 c. sugar, and four eggs with a dash of vanilla. This is a loose suggestion as to quantity, you may need to make more custard. It always takes more than you think you'll need.) and sprinkle with cinnamon. Bake at 350 till done. 45 minutes or so. Serve chilled.

Biscuit pudding

A mess of biscuits. (I like to use fried biscuits for this. Just panfry the biscuits rather than baking them.) Break into small pieces and soak in the custard mixture above for a few minutes. Pour into a baking dish (a little cinnamon wiouldn't hurt.) and bake at 300 for 45 minutes to an hour till set. Serve with ice cream.

Mater's Restaurant and Catering Jackson, Alabama-A Review

Small towns in south Alabama are not expected to be centers of gastronomic glory past the basic repertoire of meat and three vegetables, nonetheless, it is disappointing to leave a restaurant with grave concern that the kitchen staff would likely screw that up as well. Mater's, for all its pretensions, is simply the most mediocre dining establishment in Jackson.

Perhaps I expect too much, but when I am faced with a menu littered with spelling and grammar errors, misuse of culinary terms (braised in olive oil and steamed in wine, really?), and dish descriptions that make me wonder whether the "chef" has ever tasted piccata before attempting to cook it, I really have to ask if it's worth the 17.99 price tag. For half that I can buy frozen dinners that will at least taste like the dishes I associate with the names "chicken marsala" and "seafood alfredo." t

I must concede that the "italian" food they are serving is an improvement over their hamburgers (which seem beyond the abilities of the "chef") and french fries (soggy and brown). Though the "chef" should be ashamed of himself for leaving his diners with the impression that his food is what any of those dishes are actually supposed to taste like. The service, at least, is slightly better than it used to be.

I wouldn't be so upset if there were not several small changes that would so dramatically improve the food. A little decoration (the tables look like a cafeteria), frozen french fries (hand cut should be better than the ones at Burger King, not vastly inferior), someone who knows what the word "medium" means, a basic italian cookbook, a proof reader, and completely new staff, and Mater's would become the nice establishment it's pretending to be.

Cinnamon Cookies

A perfect recipe for those, like my dear Grandmother, who like "just a little something sweet to have with coffee."


Cinnamon Cookies


1 stick butter, softened 1 cup each white and brown sugar (turbinado or demerara is lovely)
1 tsp. each salt and soda
1 tsp. vanilla
1 tbs. cinnamon
2 eggs
3 cups flour
4 tbs. water


Cream butter and sugars. Stir in salt, soda, flavor, cinnamon, and eggs. Stir in flour and add as much water as you need to make a workable dough. Drop by teaspoonfuls onto a greased cookie sheet. Bake at 350 (always preheat) for 9-10 minutes till just brown at the edges. Let cool on the pan.


For a special treat, add a little nutmeg and/or mace, perhaps a half teaspoon all told, and a cup or so of raisins.

Chicken Croquettes

There are some foods which I believe we as a culture do not eat enough of. Croquettes are one of those. Anything breaded and fried is going to be near and dear to a Southerner's heart, and something that is tasty, inexpensive, and easily prepared even more so.

In European cuisine, a croquette is a paste of finely chopped food with some sort of binding agent that has been coated in breadcrumbs and deep fried. The typical binding agent is a thick white sauce. These croquettes are more in keeping with those I grew up with, minced whatever held together with egg and breadcrumbs (much like meatloaf actually) and pan fried.

These chicken croquettes are a delicious dainty for lunch, an excellent snack, and just plain good eating. Enjoy.

Begin with a quantity of chicken breast meat and run it through a food processor till very finely minced. Add 2 eggs and 1/2 cup of breadcrumbs for every pound of chicken paste. Season to taste. Form into flat patties 1/4 inch thick, dredge in breadcrumbs and pan-fry till brown on both sides.

That's really all there is to it. You can sauce them any way you like, tying it in with the seasoning. Curry powder in the croquettes with a nice makhani gravy is delightful. Italian breadcrumbs with a pomodoro sauce is excellent.

Boudin Rice One Pot Dinner

I love boudin, but boudin is hard to find outside of Louisiana. The following is a recipe inspired by boudin. Normally I hate recipes like this, the Rachael Ray "I'm not a real chef so I cook recipes "inspired" by recipes cooked by real chefs" crap that offends every gastronomic sensibility I have. Nonetheless, this is easy and quite tasty.

1 lb. good smoked sausage, finely chopped. Saute for several minutes, add a cup or so of chopped green onions, add a little salt and the cajun/creole seasoning of your choice. (I'll give mine below.) Let that cook for about ten minutes. Add 2 cups converted rice and 1 quart chicken broth, with a little more salt and seasoning. Let simmer till rice in tender. Add one more pinch of seasoning and serve with chopped parsley sprinkled on top.

My own cajun/creole file mix

1 part red pepper

2 parts black pepper

3 parts paprika (sweet spanish, not smoked or hot)

3 parts granulated garlic (not garlic powder)

1 part each: sage, oregano, thyme

The Atomic Cherry Limeade

This is a charming summer punch for when you need to let loose a little.

The secret to this little marvel is an old southern treat called Cherry Bounce. There are a variety of recipes around, but I've used this one happily for years. Quite good on its own (chilled, definitely chilled), it works magic in this cooling concoction.

Cherry Bounce

1 pound Cherries, washed and stemmed

1/2 lb. sugar (try demerara for a nice molasses twang)

1 fifth of whiskey I recommend a locally made corn whiskey (un-aged preferably), but any mid-grade bourbon will do. Nothing so good it's a sin to alter it, nor so bad that you can't drink it on it's own. Absolutely nothing blended with grain alcohol-straight bourbon or Tennessee whiskey.

Add cherries to a large jar, pour over the sugar, pour in whiskey. Shake a few times a day till the sugar is dissolved. Let sit for not less than four and not more than six weeks. Strain the liquid and bottle. Do not (Do not!) eat the cherries.

For the atomic cherry limeade, you will need water, ice, cherry bounce, and the following mixture.

Lime juice mixture:

Equal parts sugar and lime juice, shaken together and chilled.

Combine:

1 jigger each lime juice mixture and cherry bounce in a glass of ice. Add 2 jiggers water or soda. Garnish appropriately.

The same lime juice mixture may be used in a charming fruity rum drink. Use equal parts of lime juice stuff, good white rum (the stronger the better), orange juice, and pineapple juice. It's quite strong, but a great way to wind down, or up, or both.

Grillades

I offer this recipe in homage to my cousin Jamie (seventh cousin on my Mother's side) who requests it every time we have him over to the house for a meal.

A quantity of boneless pork chops (I usually start with three pounds if it's just Jamie and myself, but you can adjust to your own needs) Now, I prefer pork sirloin, but you can use whatever you like. Whatever you use, beat hell out of them with the edge of a saucer to flatten and tenderize them. Or use a meat mallet, or champagne bottle (not wine, the glass is too thin). Incidentally, this recipe is also quite good for chicken breasts (pounded flat with a cubing mallet or saucer or whatever) or cube steak.

The chops should be cut into serving pieces (I'd cut each chop in half), and dredged in the following mixture: 1 c. flour, 2 tsp. salt, 1 tbs. seasoning mix (see below). Let them rest a few minutes (yes, out on the counter) before pan frying them to a golden brown. You likely will not cook them all the way through, which is fine. Place them into a large, greased, covered casserole dish.

Make gravy. For three pounds, I use a quart of chicken broth. Prepare a darkish roux with 1 stick butter and "enough" flour (take up the slack-the roux should be smooth but not dry). Add the broth gradually, season to taste, and cook till thick. Pour over the meat, cover, and cook in a 350 oven for 90 minutes. Let it sit on the counter for at least ten minutes before serving.

Traditionally grillades are served with grits (see a previous post), but mashed potatoes works well. In fact, you can spread mashed potatoes over the top of this in lieu of a cover.

For a great one dish meal, take a pound or so of potatoes which have been peeled and grated and cooked in broth till tender(drain them after they're cooked), and spoon them over the pork/gravy mixture. No, you may not use frozen hash browns. Kittens die every time you so much as think about it.

Earlier I mentioned my seasoning mixture. I use this in nearly all my cooking, and, as many people ask when I give jars of it as gifts, it is good for vegetables. Note, I don't add salt; I like to control salinity separately from the spiciness of a dish.

1 part red pepper

2 parts herbs (italian seasoning works just fine)

3 parts black pepper (coarse ground)

4 parts granulated garlic (absolutely not garlic powder-it has no taste)

Mix in a jar and enjoy.

As a final note, I'm also quite fond of using chicken for this, and seasoning both the dredging mixture and the gravy with curry powder or paste (I make my own-much better than store bought). A tablespoon of powder in the gravy is about right. Serve with plain rice.

Pulled Pork Bites with Barbecue Beurre Blanc

This makes a charming hors d'oeuvre for any occasion.

Pulled Pork Bites

A quantity of leftover pulled pork (without sauce), chopped coarsely and weighed

Batter:

1 egg for every 8 oz. of pork.

Measure eggs, add same quantity of milk. Stir in plain flour to make a thick batter (roughly the same volume as the milk and eggs). Season with salt and pepper. Stir the pork into the batter. The mixture should just hold together.

Drop by tablespoonfulls onto a greased baking sheet, bake at 400 till nicely browned, 15-20 mins. Serve hot with sauce. These may be pan fried as well. Larger pancakes are a marvelous dinner.

Barbecue Beurre Blanc

1 stick butter, chilled and diced

1 tbs. each lemon juice and white vinegar

2 tbls. white wine

dash of worcestershire

4 tbs. chopped onion

Saute onion in very little oil till translucent. Add liquid, and reduce till it just covers the bottom of the pan. It will be syrupy. Correct seasoning. Stir in 1 tbs. of ketchup. Add butter, take pan off heat, and stir like hell until the butter is melted into the sauce. Serve with the pulled pork bites.

Stewed Backbone with Fried Pimento Cheese Grits

One of the highest compliments I ever received for my culinary efforts was from my second husband's cousin (strike that and reverse it, my second cousin's husband) . His mother, a German immigrant, a delightful, round creature was an excellent cook. On tasting this dish, her son declared it comparable to something his mother would have made. I can offer no higher recommendation.

Stewed Backbone

A quantity (say three pounds) of baby back ribs with the bone. Properly speaking, these aren't backbones, but backbones are tough, stringy, and difficult to trim. This is better meat, and you get the extra flavor from the bones.

Cut each slab into two inch wide pieces. Season with salt and pepper, and brown in a stew pot in oil or lard. Add water to cover, and simmer two hours to make a rich stock. Strain the meat out of the broth and let it(the broth) chill overnight to settle the fat which you discard. When the meat is cool enough to handle, cut it from the bone and roughly chop. Set aside in refrigerator.

Measure stock, add water to make to make 1 quart if necessary. Make a dark roux with 1 stick butter and roughly 1/3 cup flour, add enough to take up the slack. Slowly stir in stock, correct the seasoning, add the chopped meat, and simmer for an hour or so. Ideally, let it cool, then chill overnight and reheat the next day to serve. It's worth it.

Pimento Cheese

This recipe comes from a dear lady of the Protestant Methodist Church of Jones Chapel, Alabama. I hate mayonnaise, and for years I refused to eat pimento cheese. Loathing myself for the non-pimento cheese eating Southerner I was, this recipe allowed me to make my peace with a true delight of southern cooking. This keeps well, spreads well, and will not make sandwiches soggy.

1 lb. velveeta, diced

1 large can Pet milk

1 4oz. can diced pimento, drained and finely chopped

salt and pepper to taste

In a microwaveable bowl, melt cheese and milk together, stirring every 30 seconds or so, until smooth. Add pimento, correct seasoning, and let cool before chilling.

Pimento Cheese Grits

1 c. grits (none of that instant or quick nonsense)

3 c. water

1 c. sweet milk

1 tbs. salt

1/2 tsp. pepper

4 tbs. butter

Bring water and milk to a boil with salt. Add grits slowly, and simmer for 20 minutes or so till done (I don't know if you like them soupy or creamy, or what. Use your intelligence guided by experience.) Stir in pepper, butter, and a half cup or so of the pimento cheese. Use more as you like.

Fried Pimento Cheese Grits

Cook grits as above till rather thick, add pepper and cheese. When grits cool down a bit, stir in 2 eggs. Don't let then scramble. Pour the grits into a greased square dish. When completely cool, turn out and cut into 1/2 inch thick slices. Dredge in seasoned cornmeal, and pan fry till golden brown. Serve with stewed backbone.

The Funeral Bowl

Hi. I like food. A whole lot. I love to cook it, to eat it, to think about it, talk about it, and write about it. I've been working on a cookbook at the request of several friends and associates, and I thought I'd post some of those recipes here. This is my kitchen repertoire, that is, those dishes I can cook without reference to a book. There are often a variety of twists on a dish, and I will try to address those a well. Enjoy.

"Well, look everybody! Velma Jean's made a fruit salad!"

Of course she did, because that's the only dish Velma Jean ever brought anywhere. She was a lovely person, we all liked her, but Velma was not a cook. She had learned the recipe from a woman over the other side of Double Branch (but not as far down as Silver Cross), and it was nigh on to impossible to mess up, so she made it, and that was just how it was.

It was a nice salad. It was very nice, especially in Summer, the first ten or twelve times you had it. After that, it became comical, then nearly tragic. We dreaded the appearance of that lime-green Tupperware bowl that had likely been her Mother's. It was Velma Jean's neighbor who first started saying, "Well, look everybody! Velma Jean's made a fruit salad."

It was Decoration Day at the Congregation Holiness church, and in a small town everybody goes to everybody else's church for special events. Of course the Baptists and the Methodists were well acquainted with Velma Jean's fruit salad (Her mama was Methodist and Velma joined the Baptists when she married, so they tended to go to both.), but those holycostals were completely unaware of the situation, so when Velma Jean walked in and Gloria said with exaggerated enthusiasm, "Well, look everybody, Velma Jean's made a fruit salad," they had no idea why we were obviously doing our best not to die laughing.

After that, Gloria would make the announcement, often surreptitiously, as Velma Jean walked in the door. If Gloria wasn't there, someone else would do the honors. Heaven help any soul who brought the same dish to a function twice in the same month. "Did you bring a fruit salad, too?"; any number of variations on the theme.

Poor Velma Jean was too nice to notice the stiffled chortling at here expense. Over time, the joke, such as it was, lost its edge of sarcasm and became a simple acknowledgment that some things may be relied upon. We all loved Velma Jean and her faithfulness to serve any way she could, even if that meant bringing the one dish she could make to every function she attended with food involved. That fruit salad was, in its own way, a sign that Velma Jean loved us.

I think we realized how much after her funeral. It was a lovely service. Heaven knows the casket was the nicest piece of furniture Velma ever had. As we started through the line at the dinner, it was Gloria who suddenly said, very softly, her voice catching, "Oh...There's no fruit salad."

The funeral dinner is one of the highest of social occasions in the South, and a fixture of such celebrations is the "funeral bowl." At least that's what we call it in my family. It is a cut glass serving bowl, nice, but not so nice that it would be dreadful if it got broken. I have several, as do my Mother and Grandmother. Indeed, even more than the casserole dish, the funeral bowl is a concrete sign of the gentility that my homeland is known for. You might hate a man his entire life, but when he drops dead, you will show up at the house with a bowl of something as a remembrance. Anything less would be uncivilized.

I love the tradition of the funeral bowl, and enjoy collecting recipes to go in it. Here is my favorite.

Velma Jean's Fruit Salad

This is a congealed salad, but uses Eagle brand milk and lemon juice instead of Jello. It can't be sliced like a buttermilk salad or the like, so it's ideal for a bowl. Sweet, creamy, and citrusy, it is perfect for summer. Serve as a dessert salad with pimento cheese sandwiches and gazpacho. You can also chill the mixture in a baked pie crust.

1 20 oz. can of crushed pineapple and 1 15 oz. can of mandarin oranges drained. This will be blended with 1 can of Eagle brand milk and 4 tbs. of lemon juice. I like to put the fruit in the bottom of my mixing bowl, pour on the juice, and then add the milk, so the milk doesn't stick to the bottom of the bowl.

When all that is stirred together, fold in an 8 oz. bowl of Cool Whip, thawed. Chill till set.

You can use lime juice or a mix of lemon and lime juice. A touch of vanilla is nice.